Could it be a partially blocked pilot or even a gas valve. Any help would be greatly appreciated. We dont advise on DIY gas repairs here. The obvious advice is to call a competent gas reg engineer to give it a proper service! Agile , 22 Nov Agile thanks for speedy response. Forgot to mention that I have had the boiler serviced by a competant reg gas engineer. He too thought a "good clean" would rectify the problem.
However the problem still exists. His recommendation is to see if it gets worse as it's present condition is not unsafe. Rather than wait for it to fail which could be on xmas day knowing my luck I was hoping others may have experienced this problem.
The pilot soleoid may be faulty. Blooflame , 22 Nov Blooflame , 23 Nov Thanks x 1. Great feedback Blooflame. I was never going to undertake the work myself but now I can challenge my gas engineer's diagnosis. Agile's response was not very useful. I am sorry if you thought my reply was not very helpful. But its all that common sense and the forum rules allow!
In fact Booflame was probably exceeding what is allowed. Potterton Combi Potterton Derwent Compact Plus. Potterton Derwent Compact Plus Condensing. Potterton Derwent Prestige Plus. Potterton Envoy Potterton Envoy Flowsure. Potterton Envoy Flowsure Plus. Potterton Envoy System Potterton Eurocondense 2 Potterton Eurocondense 3 Potterton Flamingo CF Potterton Flamingo CF Potterton Flamingo RS Potterton Flamingo RS50S.
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Potterton Prima 50F. Potterton Prima 60B. Potterton Prima 60C. Potterton Prima 60F. Potterton Prima 80F. Potterton Profile E. I also managed to get mine working with the 3 capacitor replacement. Whilst the board was out, took the time to also give the 2 relays on the board a contact clean.
You have to gently prize off the black cover with a small flat-balde screwdriver and squeeze it to remove. Then used a fine emery paper strip or grit sandpaper - nothing coarser though! Removed some carbonisation which could form as components fail and cause some arcing.
Thanks once again to all. Carl February Potterton Profile - about 10years old - intermittent firing - pressure switch could be heard clicking in and out - so suspected the Controller board.
Removed the 3 capacitors as per previous posts - they all looked OK and behaved like capacitors should when tested on a small multimeter - put them back, soldering carefully - same problem as before - so made the trip to Maplins - 2x 22uF 63v and one 4. The capacitors are obviously breaking down at the 50v circuit voltage - so a higher voltage rating would be a better long-life design solution. The resistor R15 between the relay and the pressure switch connector block was looking seriously overheated - so changed that as well.
Its a pity these circuit designers don't do their job properly - or perhaps it is deliberate built-in obsolescence. If it was fitted to a Toyota, we'd have a global product recall and all get our money back. Roger Forshaw, Romsey Hants February Note to mr "gas safe engineer" - When capacitors are at end of life they can either go short circuit, open circuit, implode, explode etc.
If peoples are replacing components on a like for like basis they are actually keeping their boiler and its safety measures in good shape. It would only become dangerous if the pcb's were altered from the original design or safety systems were bypassed to make the boiler work again.
Now for my question - does the boiler produce a spark but it just doesn't light up or do the rest of you not even get to the sparking stage? Tony February Brilliant folks - found this, 3 new caps later at less than 50p and it's good as new. Thank you for sharing!!!! J January No one should be replacing components on printed circit boards unless you can test the board to the approriote regulations.
I have had to replace a potterton profile pcb with is basically the same as a prima because the flame rectification wasnt working but the boiled worked fine in normal operation.
Hi Guys, Just got a registered gas supplier to fix mine. How stupid do I feel? Cahal Finbarr Murphy January I'm grateful to everyone who has taken the time to offer their advice here. Replaced the 3 capacitors with high temp radial types Maplins 48pence total and now fires first time. Note: On my Prima f40 the circuit board accepts either axial or radial capacitors.
David January Hi Guys thanks for info above - so useful my 60F prima was going all the way thru to pilot lighing stage but wouldnt fire on some occasions Even found that by flexing the boiler thermostat control it would sometimes light As so many have suggested I desided to investigate dry joints on PCB I removed control board not difficult and with an eye glass checked eack soldered terminal in turn Spotted 2 ternials where there were cracks around the soldered ridge leaving a crack between it and the pin to which it should have been attached Turned out the pin that was cracked was the one which fed the white wire going to the main gas valve solenoid Resoledered both pins Re-assembed - problem solved So happy - cost nowt except lots of time investgating cause best wishes Paul Paul Jones January Worked a treat, thanks Eric W January Does the spark generator next to the pilot spark when you switch the boiler on.
Tony Taunton; Thanks a million. Same problem, same fix. Thanks too to Jon for the Maplin part numbers. Does seem to be witness heat marks around component Z3, but Maplin guy didn't know what this was and I sure don't!
Happy family now until the next time it breaks. But at 16 years old it will need replacing sooner rather than later. Rob December December 16 After a year of cold starting problems.
Just replaced the 3 capacitors listed below and re soldered diode Z3, put back together and 'BINGO' boiler started first time. Thanks to all the information provided by others was able to buy the parts from Maplins for a total of 83p! Once again thank you all for the excellent information. Graham December I cannot read the value so cant replace it :- Did anyone make a note of the component values?
Yep, a spot of solder fixed mine too, after a couple of years of never knowing whether it was going to light up or not. It took a while to get the PCB out but once I did sure enough there was what looked like a dry joint.
Slapped on some solder, put everyting back together and it it seems to be working, even when I replaced the bottom cover, which previously made burner cut out.
Did not even need to replace any components. V v chuffed. Many thanks to all contributors below. Jim S November So be careful. Gary H October Hi I have the same problem with my boiler and would like to get it resolved. However I dont know anything about boilers the HT spark generator the black square box on the pcb. Resoldered etc. I am nervous about calling someone in as it will cost lots of money and it might not be sorted out.
What is the best way to do this? Should i be able to do it myself? Would I need an electrician? Please help Alex October Another successful fix by changing the capacitors. Beware, PCB tracks lift very easily. My Potterton Prima F boiler has recently been taking more and more attempts to fire up.
The relay clicks, the fan whirrs for a few seconds, and just when you think it might light, the relay clicks off again, wait 10 secs ish and repeat - for anything up to 2 hours! Will be off to Maplins tomorrow. Watch this space. Cheers for your posts. Steve Powell February I've had the problem described for ages, and it recently went much worse.
I got a start some times by lightly tapping the cover. Phoned our local trade supplier - he was out of stock due to "selling out already today". If you don't fancy replacing the capacitors yourself, look on eBay and a couple of companies will sell guaranteed replacement boards, with a deposit system for them sending the replacement down to you first.
So guess what? Tony Burgess February Another vote of thanks here for the tip about capacitors. I've just changed the 3 capacitors on my in-law's Potterton Profile boiler PCB and it's now working fine. February My board has dry solder joints all over it! Mine has been "clicking" on and off for months and it turns out its because the pins on the front connectors were all badly soldered and arcing. When I took the board out to re-solder these connections I disloged other badly soldered components and it wouldnt work at all!
Here was me thinking i ruined it, but I went over every joint and now it works fine! Rule of thumb - check the solder joints and re-do them all just in case! Leon Funnell January Guys Thanks a Lot. You saved me a lot of money. Anyhow thankyou all. Hasan January Just found this thread on google I have a problem where the boiler will not ignite at all.
Also what worries me is that on the green pcb there is some black smudge which indicate that maybe this black switch maybe faulty. Is it still worth giving the capiciators a go? Or is this the problem only when you actually have the boiler sparking. In my case I have no spark at all Darren December Many thanks for the electrolytic tip.
Our Prima F has been slow to start for about 18 months and finally refused completely on the coldest night of the year so far. Less than a quid at Maplin for the three caps, 15 minutes with the iron and it's now firing first time every time. Thanks sdk December Hi, Just wanted to say thanks for the capacitor fix solution.
My F40 has gone through fan cycling thing since we bought our house over 2 years ago. I just thought it was some kind primer cycle and ignored it. Anyway, we discovered we had cold water yesterday and today I have hot water and a boiler that fires up first time, every time so far For what it's worth I think only the 22uF axial capacitor had failed The one with a pin at both ends but I changed all 3 anyway and refreshed all the solder joints on the board as a matter for the course.
Well done Tony, The capacitor fix sorted it out. Been having an intermittent problem for a couple of years and a couple of months ago it got to the stage where it would cycle for hours without firing. Replaced the components as per Tony and what a relief to see the bolier fire first time when I switched it on. The money saved will probably mean that we can just about afford a holiday that hung in the balance.
Cheers mate. Keith August Tony from Tauton spot on again, 65p from Maplins changed all 3 capacitors and guess what! Many thanks to Tony Taunton. I spent a long time trying to fix an intermittent fault very similar to the ones detailed. George Tod June Well done Tony Cheers, I owe you a beer mate!
Chris Chris March HI, I am having the exact same problem, only this time the fan is not kicking in at all, dont know whether to change fan, or try the pcb, both expensive to replace, might be cheaper to replace boiler in the long run, any help greately appreciated!
Dachsy March Tony Taunton has got this one right. Resoldered the joint and bingo - all is working. Nigel November I've been putting up with these symptoms for over a year and replacing the 3 electrolytic capacitors fixed the fan cycling on start up, for grand total of 77p and a few minutes with a soldering iron.
Thanks Tony! I initially thought the white wire from the PCB to the spark electrode a lone wire at the back of the board was permanently attached to the PCB, but it just pulls off sideways. I had this problem, and spent a long time experimenting with various ideas, but the cycling on and off happened everytime that the boiler started up from cold. Sometimes it would cycle the fan on and off for 40 minutes before it finally started.
I took the "black box" out and examined it. I clipped the tops off the relays and cleaned the contacts with paper: still the same. I then examined the underside of the PCB, and found several dry ie badly soldered joints. This didn't fix it. C4 and C7 were 22uF at 63v and C6 was 4. Get high temperature deg if you can, as they get hot, and that's what shortens their life.
One of mine was oozing out at the bottom. You can buy capacitors at Maplins or CPC via the internet. This will probably fix most boiler control boards: the electrolytics will always be the first thing to fail on any bit of kit that gets hot.
Tony Taunton November I can answer this question How can I fix my Potterton Prima 'F' boiler? Your Answer:. Add Answer. Your Answer: An answer is required. Your Name will be displayed : Your name is required. Error Please wait Categories howtomendit. Latest Questions. The fuse went on the PCB and was replaced but only lasted a few hrs.
I have anoth
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