When I was at 55 miles after I replaced the part I went for an emissions and the computer indicated that my car was not ready. How many miles or what needs to be done for me to get my car ready for an emissions test? The computer is looking for 2 trouble-free drive cycles. It is hard to say mileage-wise. It all depends on the speed, road condition, engine performance, among other things.
In a nut shell, even though you have driven for 90 miles, but if the trips have been stop and go, you change speed all the times, transmission has to shift through gears all the times, that does not count as successful drive cycle.
What I have found to work is that if you can find an open flat highway, somewhere where you can drive for minimum 30 uninterrupted minutes, just set the cruise control at 55, drive. Do not use brake, do not downshift, do not accelerate, let the cruise control drive on its own one speed for a minimum of 30 minutes. Once that is accomplished, you have one successful drive cycle. Turn of the vehicle, wait a few minutes, start the vehicle, and perform another drive cycle. Last week, I noticed that the engine was having a rough idle, the service engine light did not come on but I anticipated that one of the cyclinders was misfiring.
This weekend, I changed the sparkplugs and when I tried lifting the 4 ignition coil out, it basically broke in half with little force. I thought I figured out my problem.
If the resistance is not within the specifications the sensor and subharness must be removed to do further testing. If it is within specifications recheck while wiggling the subharness wires. If still no problem is found the wire between the computer and the knock sensor must be checked for opens or grounds. In this and in most cases it was not within specifications. Now comes the tricky part, the labor guides give 2. I have a short cut if you have some tools and patience it can be done in about half an hour or so.
I always try to see if I can break the attaching bolt loose with a swivel socket and extension. If it does then great ,simply remove the bolt and use the subharness to pull the knock sensor up and out. To install the new knock sensor, attach the subharness and drop the attaching bolt into the sensor. Using a long skinny screwdriver or a mechanics finger actual name of tool as a support and guide lower the sensor and bolt into position.
Once you feel the the bolt drop into the threaded hole, use the harness to maintain this position. Gently turn the bolt making sure not to cross thread it. It may take a few attempts.
Be patient and very gentle as it will be a 3 hour mistake. Once the bolt is tightened with the swivel socket, I usually drop the wrench back in place and put a final tightening on it with the pry bar as outlined in the removal procedure. Open the hood of your Maxima and locate the negative battery cable at the battery terminal. Using a wrench, remove the retaining bolt and separate the cable from the battery, isolating the cable while you work.
Locate the knock sensor on the top edge of the engine block on the right side of the engine. It is about halfway back and is a circular part with a bolt running through the center and an electrical connector on the outer edge.
Disconnect the wiring harness connector from the knock sensor by lifting the locking tab slightly and then pulling the connector off the sensor. Remove the bolt from the center of the knock sensor with a socket and ratchet, them remove the sensor from the engine block.
Position the new sensor on the engine block and insert the retaining bolt through the center, threading it into the engine block. Tighten the bolt with a socket and ratchet, then install the electrical connector on the sensor. Make sure you push the connector in enough for the locking tab to engage.
Connect the negative battery cable on the negative battery terminal.
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